The pickle man

Saturday, January 30, 2016

Gumbo Dip




Monroe Mardi Gras is one of my favorite things about living as an adult in the town where I grew up.  No, it's not as fancy as New Orleans Mardi Gras, or as old as Mobile Mardi Gras, but there's just something that feels very "circle of life" about putting my kids on my shoulders on the same corner where I used to stand and scream "Throw me something, Mister!" as a child.

Of course, I also love Mardi Gras food.  Jambalaya, king cake, bourbon slush, muffalettas, my mother-in-laws's crawfish cornbread... my mouth waters just thinking about it.  This year, I decided to bring gumbo dip to our celebration. It takes the ingredients of gumbo into portable, tail-gate or Super-Bowl-Sunday-worthy form.
Turn up the zydeco and enjoy!

Ingredients:
2 tablespoons butter
1/2 onion, diced fine
2 ribs celery, diced fine
1 bell pepper, diced fine
2 cloves or 1 tablespoon minced garlic
1 cup cut okra (can use frozen)


 1 lb small shrimp (I use frozen 150 count, so really small,  defrosted)
1-2 teaspoons Cajun seasoning (garlic powder, onion powder, red pepper, salt)
1 8 oz package cream cheese, softened
1/2 cup Parmesan cheese, shredded
1/4 cup chicken stock, shrimp stock, or water, for thinning if needed
4-5 dashes Tabasco (optional)



Procedure: 
Dice the vegetables (a food processor makes this part easier).  Saute them in butter over medium-high heat for 8-10 minutes, until soft.  Add the garlic and stir for 1-2 minutes.  Add okra and cook an additional 3-4 minutes. If you are using frozen shrimp, defrost them (I just ran warm water over them for a few seconds, enough to break them apart). Add the shrimp and stir until they are pink and opaque (usually 5-7 minutes).
Turn down the heat and add the seasonings and softened cream cheese, cut into cubes.
Stir in half of the Parmesan cheese.  Taste for seasonings.  I had to add a little broth since mine was very thick and hard to stir.  I also added some Tabasco.

Spoon into an oven-proof bowl.*  Sprinkle the rest of the Parmesan cheese on top of the dip, and heat in a 350 degree oven until warm and bubbly, usually about 10-15 minutes.

Serve with toasted french bread or a sturdy cracker.

*Stop at this point if you are making this ahead.  This dip can be made and assembled 1-2 days in advance and kept in the fridge until ready to be baked.  If you do this, add 15 minutes to the baking time.
Technically, this picture is from New Orleans Mardi Gras
Cousins at Monroe Mardi Gras! 

Saturday, January 23, 2016

Bacon-Wrapped Duck Breasts



If the pick-up truck parked in your driveway has ever looked like this, then you probably already have some variation of this recipe, but just in case...


I was first introduced to this appetizer over a decade ago by my husband's then-roommate, John, who was, and is, a consummate duck hunter. But most of the hunters I know seem to have some iteration.  I think it's a favorite because wild duck is usually a little gamy and is extremely lean.  The marinade helps a lot with the gaminess and the bacon keeps the lean meat from drying out during cooking.

Ingredients:
Breasts from 6-8 ducks
1 lb thin bacon
1/2 block of cream cheese
Pickled or fresh jalapenos
Marinade (recipe below)

Procedure:
First, have your favorite hunter breast the ducks for you, preferably outside.  Rinse them several times, then carefully examine them make sure that all of the shot gun pellets are out -- biting into steel shot is a good way to break a tooth.

Soak them in cold water for a few hours, then put them in a marinade.


  Marinade them for 2-6 hours in the refrigerator.

1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil
1/4 cup Lea & Perrin's Worcestershire sauce
1/4 cup red wine
2 cloves crushed garlic
1 tsp Kosher salt
1/4 tsp red pepper
1/2 tsp black pepper

Combine these in a ziploc bag and shake well.  Then add the duck breasts.

After a few hours, take the breasts out of the marinade and pound them flat.  This process is neater if you place the breasts in a plastic bag first.

 They should be really thin.

Then, spread the flattened meat with soft cream cheese, and place one jalapeno slice per breast.
Roll them up, wrap them in bacon, and secure with a toothpick.  If you have picky eaters, you can leave the jalapeno out of some and color-code your toothpicks accordingly.

Finally, grill!

These take about 10-12 minutes over medium heat, turning once. You can also do them in the oven or on a grill pan on the stove. When the bacon is brown, the duck meat is probably done.  You can use a meat thermometer to check -- cooked breasts should register around 140 if you like them medium rare (which we do, or else they get too tough).  


Enjoy!

Sunday, January 10, 2016

Chicken and Sausage Gumbo (D's favorite meal)





This is my nine year old.

He doesn't eat (most) food that touches. In other words, he won't eat casseroles, (although if I save all the separate bits that go into a casserole and serve them, not touching, on a plate, he will eat them). Even beef stew must be served with the mashed potatoes or grits or rice on the side.

Etouffee? Pasta salad? Absolutely anything prepared in a crockpot? Don't even think about it. He'll be having a piece of fruit and peanut butter toast, thank you very much (because this mama doesn't make two meals).

He was not always this way.  A brief glance at the archives of this site show him happily devouring a variety of "touching" foods. But since roughly the time he became literate and started losing teeth, he has become quite particular.

HOWEVER...

One significant (*and one minor) exception to his "FOOD MUST NOT TOUCH" mantra has survived the onset of permanent teeth: gumbo -- which, as I remind him, is a whole lot of things touching.  But he's loved it forever.  Especially this gumbo.

There are as many gumbo recipes as there are cooks in this state. This is our favorite, mainly because it is easy enough that I can make it once a month.  I make a homemade roux, but I do use boxed broth and roasted chicken breasts instead of boiling the whole chicken because
1. I think it tastes better AND
2. I really don't like de-boning chicken, so I found that when I skipped this step, I made gumbo for my family a lot more.


Ingredients:
1 1/4 cups all purpose flour
1 cup vegetable oil
1 medium onion, diced small**
1 green bell pepper, diced small
2 ribs celery, diced small
1 tablespoon (2 cloves) diced garlic
2 bay leaves
6 cups chicken stock (you can make your own, but I usually cheat and don't)
1-2 cups water
1 cup sliced okra (can be frozen)
2 cups cooked chicken meat  (this can include roasted chicken breasts OR 4 thighs OR the meat from one small boiled or rotisserie chicken, shredded or cut into pieces)
2 links andouille sausage, browned in a skillet and drained (optional, but worth it)

salt and pepper to taste
red pepper to taste (I usually go light on this and add Tabasco to mine)






Method (and a lot of probably unnecessary commentary):

To start, as "my mamma and 'dem" say:  First, you make a roux.

Combine cold vegetable oil and flour in a cold pot.  Turn on the heat and begin whisking.  I use a flat whisk, but you can also use a wooden spoon or spatula.  Something flat to scrape the bottom of the pot helps.
There are two methods to heating your roux.  If you are a lazy and distracted stirrer, you can use the "low and slow" method my mom taught me.  That way, you only have to stir vigorously once the roux begins to pick up color.

If you're a bit more adventurous, turn up the heat.  Your arm will get a workout, but you'll have a roux in about 15-20 minutes.  Stir constantly and scrape the bottom of the pot with each stir.  Recruit your children. Talk your spouse into taking a turn while you move the clothes from the washer to the dryer.  Switch arms.  Think about the calories you are burning.  And stir.

Meanwhile (if you are a low/slow) or in advance, dice your vegetables.  I use a food processor because I like my vegetables really small (plus, I've got to save arm strength for stirring the roux).

Either way, if there are black chips in the roux, sorry to say you've burned it, but everyone has to burn at least one.  Turn on your vent, throw out the roux, wash your pot, and begin again.

When the roux is brown***, add the diced onion, bell pepper, and celery, stirring vigorously.  There will be steam.  Keep stirring.  Cook for 8-10 minutes, stirring frequently but not constantly, until the vegetables are tender. I usually add a little salt at this stage.  Add the garlic and cook for another 2 minutes.

Begin adding the chicken stock in a steady stream, stopping to stir well to incorporate.  You can add water as needed to get to the consistency you like.  Add the bay leaves and red pepper.

Bring to a boil and simmer, uncovered for 30 minutes.  Add okra and simmer for 20-30 minutes. Add the meat and taste, seasoning as necessary. Simmer until ready to serve.

Serve over white rice with French bread and a green salad.  My husband also recommends saltine crackers.







This gumbo is even better made a day in advance and reheated.  It also freezes well.  I typically freeze it in quart bags, not overly full (so they can stack in the freezer).  Then, for a week night meal, all I have to do is run the bag under hot water while I make the rice, and reheat the defrosted gumbo in the microwave.

Notes:
* The minor exception?  Lasagne verdi -- minor because he only gets to eat it about twice a year.
While he will at least try most gumbos (unless they have shrimp), he will absolutely only eat this one lasagna.
And (of course) it takes 6 hours, 3 friends, 2 homemade sauces, noodles that we crank out using a pasta roller, and at least one bottle of wine.

** These three ingredients (onion, celery, bell pepper) are the holy trinity of Cajun cooking (as my mama explained it).   I pulse them in my food processor until they are diced so fine that their texture disappears but their flavor remains.

*** (Allyson note) Brown? What do I mean by brown? First, a medium brown roux will get thicker than a dark brown roux.  Seems counterintuitive?  It did to me, too, the first time I read it.  But then we experimented and it proved true.  Also, darker roux is more prone to separate.  Soooo I typically shoot for Jif-peanut-butter-brown roux.  And yes, I get out the jar and compare.  I occasionally get brave (usually for seafood gumbo) and go for the Hershey's chocolate bar.  But the gumbo I make at least once a month? Peanut butter brown.

Friday, January 8, 2016

Lemon Cake



 This week, my younger son was "snack leader" for his kindergarten.  Snack week always has noticeable highs and lows.


The lows: 
Monday: After a two week vacation, I remembered it was our snack week when I opened his backpack exactly 3 minutes before we had to leave or miss the bus. 
 So... the class enjoyed a jumbo bag of pretzels, 2/3 full, and some candy left over from when we made gingerbread houses before Christmas.  Oops. 

Tuesday: my  husband managed to make it by Walmart before he had to be at work at 7:15 and grab some chips (So, from a "my husband is a hero!" standpoint, this actually may have been a high?).

Thursday: I forgot again (I know... it's time to bring back the family calendar)... so off he went (uncomplaining, because he's the second kid) with 2/3 a box of graham crackers and some very Christmas-sy candy canes. Yes, I know, it's January.


The highs: 

Wednesday was Epiphany, and on Epiphany, my family makes homemade king cake.  Sometimes we share with the boys' classes.   (Here's the recipe we use).

And Friday, 6:15 a.m. found our proud snack leader glazing a lemon cake.



 My older son's best friend loves this cake.   The first time he spent the night, we had it for dessert. Later, he told me he had to call his mom.  I thought he was feeling homesick; instead, he was calling her to ask that she get the recipe.


This cake does have a lot of steps, but I promise it is worth it .  
You can make it in a large (10 inch) bundt pan, 2 loaf pans, or a few mini loaf pans.  I've never tried it as muffins but expect they would be amazing.  This time I used a smaller (9 inch) bundt pan (for the kindergarten) and had enough batter left for two mini loaf pans for the family.  My son's friend even got the last piece this afternoon.






Lemon Cake, adapted from Ina Garten's recipe 


2 sticks butter, at room temperature
2 cups sugar
4 large eggs, at room temperature
1/3 cup grated lemon zest (3-4 Meyer lemons; 5-6 regular lemons)*
3 cups flour**
1/2 tsp baking powder
1/2 tsp baking soda
1 tsp Kosher salt
1/4 cup freshly squeezed lemon juice (zest first, then juice -- much neater that way)
3/4 cup buttermilk at room temperature
1 teaspoon vanilla extract


For the syrup:
1/4 cup freshly squeezed lemon juice
1/4 cup sugar

For the glaze:
1 1/2 cups powdered sugar (Ina recommends sifting, but we don't mind the lumps)
2-3 Tablepsoons of fresh-squeezed lemon juice

Directions

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees F. Grease and flour your pans. (I use Baker's Joy; if you are using a decorated bundt pan like mine, do a very thorough job).

Cream the butter and 2 cups granulated sugar in the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, until light and fluffy, about 5 minutes. I use this time to zest my lemons.  With the mixer on medium speed, add the eggs, 1 at a time, and the lemon zest, scraping down the bowl after each addition. (If you forgot to leave your eggs out to let them come to room temperature, you can put them in a bowl of warm water for a few minutes).

Sift together the flour, baking powder, baking soda, and salt in a bowl. In another bowl, combine 1/4 cup lemon juice, the buttermilk, and vanilla. The mixture will curdle.  Add the flour and buttermilk mixtures alternately to the batter, beginning and ending with the flour.


Pour the batter into the pan (or divide the batter evenly between the pans, if using more than one). Smooth the tops, and bake for 45 minutes to 1 hour, until a cake tester comes out clean.

Meanwhile, make the syrup.  Combine 1/4 cup granulated sugar with 1/4 cup lemon juice in a small saucepan and cook over low heat until the sugar dissolves.  You can also do this in the microwave.  

When the cake is done, allow to cool for 10 minutes. If you are using a bundt pan, while the cake is still in the pan, make holes in the bottom of the cake with the handle of a wooden spoon or spatula.  If you are using loaf pans, you can take the cake(s) out and invert it(them) to do this. Slowly pour the lemon syrup over the cake, filling the holes.

If you are using the bundt pan, shake the pan until it feels loose, then invert it carefully over your cake plate.


For the glaze, combine the confectioners' sugar and the lemon juice in a bowl or measuring cup. Pour over the tops of the cakes and allow the glaze to drizzle down the sides.




* First, a note on zesting.  I use a microplane that my husband picked up at a hardware store and adore the tiny bits it makes.  You can get them on Amazon prime, although Michael says they are cheaper at the hardware store.  It is easily one of my most-used kitchen tools and works equally well on Parmesan cheese and nutmeg. 

Second, a note on lemons. I absolutely love making this cake with Meyer lemons, which I used to get from my neighbor.  However, the snow storm last year destroyed their tree.  BUT if you can get Meyer lemons for this, please do... just don't brag too much the next time you see me!












** (for Allyson and others who are really into the details)    Ina calls for cake flour, which I don't keep on hand, BUT  I use White Lily All Purpose flour, which is a very "soft" flour -- it has less gluten and is made from winter wheat, so it produces a noticeably softer crumb in cakes.  And for bread, my favorite is King Arthur Bread Flour ;)



Sunday, January 3, 2016

Sunday Stew




Happy New Year!  I've purchased a domain name and "resolved" to update at least weekly.  This recipe is one I've wanted to share for a long time because it is one of our household staples.  It counts as comfort food but is reasonably easy on the wallet and the waistline -- great for the first week of January.  It's the perfect thing to make on a Sunday afternoon.

Once you chop everything up, it simmers deliciously on the stove for hours, requiring minimal stirring.  It freezes well and makes enough to share.  It can be served over egg noodles, grits, or rice, or, since it uses turnips and carrots instead of potatoes, it doesn't feel redundant over mashed potatoes (our favorite).  As an added bonus, everyone in my family devours it and goes for seconds.

The original recipe is from Pioneer Woman.  I've changed the proportions to better suit our family, and made it a little thicker.

Sunday Stew

3 Tbs olive oil
1 Tbs butter (salted and unsalted both work)
2  1/2  pounds beef stew meat (I buy chuck roast and cut it up), salted and peppered
1 onion, diced
1 tablespoon or 3 cloves minced garlic
6 oz (1 small can) tomato paste
6 cups (32 oz) beef stock (I use Kitchen Basics Unsalted)
1 Tbs Worcestershire Sauce
5 carrots, peeled and cut into pieces
2 large turnips, peeled and cut into 1 inch pieces *
1 Tbs softened butter combined with 1-2 Tbs flour to make a thick paste **
Salt and pepper to taste


Add the olive oil and the butter to a heavy pot or Dutch oven.  Turn the heat on high.  When the butter foams,  add the half meat in a single layer.  Don't overcrowd the meat, or it won't brown as well.  Cook for 1-2 minutes, until brown.  Turn once and cook for another minute.  Remove with a slotted spoon and cook the other half of the meat.  Remove to a plate.

Reduce the heat to medium and add the diced onions, stirring well and scraping up any delicious browned bits.  Cook until slightly caramelized, about 8-10 minutes.  Add the garlic and cook for another 1-2 minutes.  Add the tomato paste, stirring well.  Add the beef stock in a slow stream, stirring constantly.  Add the Worcestershire.  Bring to a boil.  Reduce the heat to low, add the beef back to the pot, and cover.  Cook for 2 hours, stirring occasionally.

After approximately 2 hours, add the carrots and turnips and cook uncovered for 30 minutes.

In a small bowl, combine softened butter and flour with a fork.  Whisk, in pieces, into the stew.  Cook for an additional 5 minutes to thicken.

Serve over mashed potatoes (or grits, noodles, or rice).  And for dessert... as for me, I'll be trying to help my family's resolutions along by removing the temptation of the Christmas chocolate.


* Promise me you'll try the turnips.  I never had one until I was over 30.  Along with Brussels sprouts, turnips are one of those things my mother never cooked (she's more of an asparagus/ zucchini person).
But when Pioneer Woman went on and on about the turnip-y turnips, I felt that I would be doing the stew a disservice if I didn't give them a try.
Plus, William randomly loves turnips.  (You can blame the Box Car children books).  The best bit?  Serving this to my mom and asking her to guess the vegetable.  She loved it, but the closest she could come was "white squash?"


**  This is called a beurre manie.  It's one of my favorite techniques for thickening something at the end of the cooking process.  You can soften the butter in the microwave, but I tend to melt it, which doesn't work.  So instead, I put the tablespoon of butter in a small bowl on the counter at the beginning of making the stew.  After 2 hours, it is soft enough to mash with a fork.
Pioneer Woman doesn't thicken hers at all, so you can skip this step.  Or, you can make a slurry out of one tablespoon corn starch and one tablespoon cold water, and add that to the pot to thicken it.  However, to me, the beurre manie adds the most flavor. 

Enjoy!